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Let's be honest - do you know which of the following brands is a genuine natural cosmetics brand: Alverde, Lavera, Balea, L'Occitane and Kneipp? And which of them are only natural cosmetics, organic cosmetics - or even conventional cosmetics?

If you can answer this question correctly, then you are probably a professional. Then you know: Lavera and Alverde are the only brands that offer certified natural cosmetics in their entire range. (You can find out which brand is which at the end of this article).

If you don't know the answer, you're in good company: in the minds of most consumers, there is a confusion between established, conventional cosmetics brands and the representatives of "real" natural cosmetics. Various seals and certificates add to this confusion.

Of course, seals give the consumer security. The only problem is that there are too many of them. And each one defines its own standard. Many brands take advantage of this chaos and pretend to be natural cosmetics brands - although at best they can only be classified as "near-natural".

The natural cosmetics industry thinks too small

Back in October 2015, the natural cosmetics industry discussed its future at its congress in Berlin. It became clear how difficult it is for the pioneers to defend their peak performance in the long term. The hope that the entire industry could become a brand has not materialized. Only a few brands such as Weleda or Lavera have succeeded in attracting attention as strong natural cosmetics brands in the large, broad field of cosmetics.

The pioneers' move from specialist organic retailers to drugstores came late. The companies used the window of opportunity to fire up their marketing machinery and place their own natural cosmetics brands on the market. Brands such as Garnier Bio are much more present today than many organic pioneers. Start-up brands such as Benecos, Nonique, UND Gretel and Jungglück also seized the opportunity and made it onto the cosmetics shelves.

Pioneers create an idea, not a brand

Andreas Knörzer is a pioneer in politically correct investments. In an interview with the trade magazine "brand eins" in 2012, he described his experience: "It was classic: first you are ridiculed, then opposed, finally accepted and imitated by the competition." Knörzer is now Vice-Chairman of Vontobel Asset Management and Chairman of the ESG Investment Governance Committee.

Even today, ten years on, Knörzer's observation has lost none of its relevance - across all sectors. It could just as well have come from a personality who was at the cradle of natural cosmetics. Because that is part of the fate of pioneers: They cannot defend the genius with which they initiate something new for long. A success quickly has many fathers. They then claim for themselves what others created with conviction and the courage to take risks.

This is the error in thinking in industries that are created by pioneering achievements: They think they are unique and can be defended. Seals, quality marks or certificates are used to differentiate themselves from imitators. They are inspired by the original idea, which they want to defend.

Copycats are often more successful than pioneers

However, history shows that these efforts were never successful in the long term. In fact, imitators are what really get an innovation going. This was proven by Isaac Wanasika from the University of Northern Colorado and Suzanne L. Conner from New Mexico State University.

This means that early imitators are often more successful than their role models, the pioneers. The latter risk being completely forgotten. This is because many people consider the most successful provider on the market to be the one who invented a technology or concept.

McDonald's did not invent a fast food chain, nor did Apple invent the touchscreen for the telephone. But they did understand how to turn these innovations into a brand. In doing so, they helped an innovation achieve a breakthrough. And the pioneers? They can benefit from the development if they also position themselves as brands. But only then.

Natural cosmetics have no credibility problem

As long as an industry is growing, both pioneers and imitators will remain successful. There is room for everyone in growth. If a market is saturated at some point, the most successful products are those that have positioned themselves most clearly as a brand. Those who stick to the business model of the pioneering days lose out. The pioneers' collective competitive advantage of belonging to a specially created industry is quickly melting away.

This would be their chance: a natural cosmetics industry full of strong brands that boldly go their own way. Because they believe that certified natural cosmetics are a real alternative to conventional cosmetics. While conventional cosmetics companies often only use the topics of organic and nature as a marketing surface, they are fully committed to nature.

Many consumers are unaware of the wonderful stories behind these pioneering brands. How effective natural cosmetics can be. The newcomers understood this right from the start: How important it is to harmonize nature, effect and, above all, beauty. Who wants to buy dusty organic products?

There is still movement in the market. My prediction: the future will belong to those brands that have understood that nature and glamor are not mutually exclusive.

Resolution of the question from the introduction:

Alverde: A dm brand that offers certified natural cosmetic products.

Lavera: A brand that was founded in 1978 and is one of the pioneers of natural cosmetics. Lavera offers 100% certified natural cosmetics.

Balea: A dm brand that offers conventional cosmetics.

L'Occitane: The products of the French cosmetics brand L'Occitane consist "preferably of natural ingredients". A quarter of the "200 natural ingredients" are certified organic. However, there are some products that contain substances such as silicones or chlorophenesin, which are not permitted in certified natural cosmetics.

Kneipp: In the development of Kneipp products, herbal active ingredients are preferably used. Accordingly, only some of the products are certified natural cosmetics.